Alex very bravely went on a boy scout camp out this last weekend (I'll let him describe the experience in his own post) so Violet, Ethan, Chris and I headed downtown. The Temple of Heaven is a lovely building and very famous architecturally. The outing involved a lot of walking and it was close to lunchtime when we arrived. This means impending doom when dealing with a 5 year old. By the time we exited the temple, Violet was starving, grumpy
and sick of being photographed. We had bought her an adorable little
bit of a tourist kitsch hat with beads and butterflies. It looked very
cute on her, but unfortunately made her even more of a target for
photographers. Everybody wanted her picture. At first, she accepted it
gracefully, but then decided she had had enough. Chris and I don't
really mind the picture-taking as long as she is into it. Once she
isn't, we told her that it is okay to say no. She starting hiding her
face when people approached and wanted to photograph her. Unfortunately, hiding your face or crying can make you even more popular. Like an elusive Cheetah or something. The hunger and crankiness got progressively worse even after we offered up countless Luna bar snacks. Fortunately, the park surrounding the temple was a fun kid mecca. There was a playground/exercise area where she could stop a bit and run around. There were areas filled with ancient trees where you could play hide and seek. It was a fairly nice day by Beijing standards, which meant that the air was just normal bad instead of crazy bad. The park was filled with elderly gentleman playing cards, people flying kites, exercising, eating and, in short, having a wonderful time.
After the park, we decided to humor the two kids in tow and headed to Pearl Market to dine at, ready for it? Ta-dum, McDonald's. Yes, we are a true cliche in China. And yes, it was just as bad as it is back home. Then we strolled through the market where you can buy every type of knock-off imaginable. It was the land of the "lady, you want a Rolex" and "lady, I have Louis Vuitton". One sad fact about all of our family is that we aren't good hagglers. I don't enjoy it and I don't want to do it. I really like having a price for something and paying that. I'm clearly not much of a shopper. That approach doesn't work here because the initial price is always clearly something beyond ridiculous. You know that if you pay it, you are instantly labelled the stupidest tourist pretty much ever. Having people pushing stuff at me constantly also has the added effect of making me disinclined to even stop and look at the stuff. Behind the market is Toy Market. 4 floors of "made in China" kid heaven filled with scooters, kites, stuffed animals, dolls, beeping electronics and pretty much every other kid item you can think of. We did buy a couple of things there. The prices weren't marked up quite as high and the haggling wasn't quite as fierce.
We were feeling quite brave at that point and pleased with our management of the outing. So brave that instead of taking a taxi home (not quite the safe, predictable route you might expect, but I'll post about that later), we decided to check out the subway. Getting back home involved about 17 stops and 3 connections. We climbed on a subway and quickly realized that there was no way Violet could manage to stand for that entire distance. She was exhausted and fading quickly. So we came up with Plan B. This involved transferring once and riding a few stops to a mall where we could pick up a shuttle bus back to our compound. Unfortunately, when the door opened for the subway that we needed to get on it was so packed that there was absolutely no way any of us could fit on there. So, Plan C. That involved getting out and walking to a large hotel in the area where we managed to hail a cab back home. Whew!
I didn't get to the Temple of Heaven until our last week in China. I loved how the city disappeared when you entered and how peaceful it was - having a lovely beginning summer day didn't hurt that impression either. I know it felt different for my son who got the celebrity photography treatment every outing - hearing your daughter's frustration with the unrelenting attention hit a memory too. I think you were brave to take a child into the toy market and the Pearl Market. The McDs there is new since we were there and may have helped a bit back in the day. I am very impressed with all that you were able to do and see in a day! Do go back to Temple of Heaven on a lovely warmer day to see it all green. It helps with those grey bad air days.
ReplyDeleteThank you Nomads for your words of wisdom. I do think it will be a treat on a sunny blue sky day. I've been following your blog for the past year now and definitely have a bit of a blogger crush on ya'll. I know things are hard there right now and I know all of us FS folks are thinking of you guys in Ankara. Ha. Don't be impressed. We are probably mostly just foolhardy. It is a long way into the city from the 'burbs so when we do go downtown, we try to do as much as possible!
ReplyDeleteYour blog has been a great find for us too - we are living vicariously and remembering our move and what use to be lives in the big B. Totally get the do as much as you can - we too are guilty of that. Living in a place is so different than being a tourist there - between work, school, commitments and weather sometimes the other side of town can been like another continent. Another place near the Temple of Heaven that we enjoyed was the nearby Antique street - Liu Li Chang - lots of little stores and a lovely walking street. There were hutong tours on rickshaw that ran from there. Ritan Park was always a favorite too. Another cool place we went to by taxi from the Temple of Heaven was to the Marco Polo bridge. Really, though, Beijing is full of lots of amazing and curious things to see. You could do something everyday of your tour and still not see it all. We will enjoy following what you do get to though! Take care and breath carefully! Do they still hand out taxi books through the Rotary Club of Beijing?
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