Vienna, really shines at Christmas. It has every element-- twinkling lights, a dusting of snow, beautiful palaces and buildings--that we seem to crave during the holiday season. The long, dark nights have come so lights and cheer and hot wine help everyone feel better.
The city boasts a worldwide reputation for stunning architecture and livability, but it also shares a reputation for being, um, not exactly kid-friendly. While it is true that I think many locals might prefer to dine in the company of pets over children, this reputation isn't entirely deserved. One thing to remember is that elderly people and waiters here are pretty much unfriendly to everyone. Local or expat, young or old. It's an equal opportunity lifestyle. Yes, you might get some grumpy looks or even comments (but likely in German so you won't understand anyways) if you or your kids speak too loudly in a restaurant or on the metro. But, believe me, the perks of the city are worth withstanding the occasional glare.
Here are my recommended top experiences for Vienna in the winter. Since this is a winter list and it is always cold and frequently rainy/snowy in the winter months, I am not including a lot of outdoor activities. Believe me, you and your kids are likely to want to spend time indoors if you visit November-March. I lead with the markets so ignore that bit if don't visit during the Christmas season. I've also limited this list to things we have done. There are tons of other things I want to do (hello Schonbrunn Palace) so my list is likely to evolve. This should give you a good starting place for your Vienna explorations.
Drink a Punsch at a Christmas Market
This might be my favorite Viennese experience so far. Okay, maybe my overall favorite European experience. France, Belgium, Germany, Austria, the Netherlands....I like ALL of the markets. And Vienna is chock full of them. My favorite markets for families are the University of Vienna market, the Karlsplatz market and the Rathaus market. You will almost certainly want to imbibe of a hot drink at the market, either alcoholic or non-alcoholic. They typically serve the drinks in mugs. You can keep the mug for a modest fee of 4 euros or return it. You will be charged the 4 euros as a deposit though, making the price of a drink 8 euros, which can be pretty steep when buying for a family. So, remember to bring lots of cash to the markets.The University of Vienna Altes AKH market, situated in an old hospital, is enclosed in a courtyard and tends to be off the tourist path, making it a more local market. It's quite large with a petting zoo, pony rides and a children's area with a small ferris wheel, games and other rides. It has a curling area and plenty of places to have Gluhwein, apple punsch or kinder punsch. It also had several indoor restaurants where you can get fondue or traditional Austrian meals.
The Karlsplatz art market is right by a large metro station and the scenic setting features what I think is the most beautiful church in Vienna (and that is saying a lot). It is a local artisan craft market. No made in China stuff sold here. Instead, it is guaranteed to be made locally so you really are supporting the local artist community. It has live music, tons of organic food stalls and a bit of a bohemian/hippy vibe. There is a playground at the park and an area in the middle of the market with a bunch of hay that kids can play in. There is also a petting zoo area.
The Rathaus Christkindlmarkt is the biggest and most commercial of the Viennese markets. You will find all of the normal market offerings, from gingerbread to sausages. The best part for families is the large ice-skating area. You can rent skates there and kids skate free during the week. Even tiny beginners can try their hand as they have props to hold onto and a small area for little ones. The market also features a ferris wheel and a carousel.
Have Some Cake in a Classic Coffee House
I know, I know, it doesn't seem like this should belong on a list aimed at small children. But, no visit to Vienna would be complete for anyone, young or old, without sitting in one of the classic cafes and having a hot chocolate and cake. My family's favorite is, hand's down, Demel. Now, mind you, this is not a laid-back, cuddly experience with a kid corner or anything like that. The waitstaff wear tuxes and everything is served on real china. So, I'd say this is an experience for kids who are 5 and over. Or younger ones who are used to this type of setting. Demel was the chocolatier to the royal Hapsburg family and many say they actually have the original Sacher Torte (this is a story for another day). I do personally prefer their Sacher Torte to that served at the Sacher hotel. They definitely have the best hot chocolate of the fancy Viennese cafes. We have tested the other biggies. Plus, since they are a tourist cafe, they are accustomed to families and tourists. And the upstairs area is non-smoking so it doesn't have the extreme smoky smell many Viennese coffee houses have. Just as a note, the etiquette in these fancy coffee houses is to order your drinks from your waiter. Then you go to the buffet of desserts and choose your offerings. The waitress there will hand you a little slip of paper with your choices written down. You then hand this to your waiter and he brings your desserts. This is a far from intuitive process so I wanted to make a note of how it is done:)
Explore Your Musical Side at the House of Music
Vienna's Haus der Musik is fun for all ages, even adults! The fun starts with the musical stairs (conjuring up images of the movie Big) that you climb to start the exhibit. There is tons of information on the many musical geniuses that made Vienna their homes, as well as historical artifacts from their lives and eras. You can also try your hand at conducting the Viennese Symphony Orchestra (watch out, they can be a tough crowd) and exploring the science of sound. It is a fully interactive museum spread out over 5 floors.
Travel Back in Time
Okay, this is wildly cheesy, touristy and a bit over-priced, but perhaps the perfect way to entertain children who might not be as into exploring the Hapsburg silverware collection as you are. I rarely recommend things like this because they are far from an authentic experience, but my family did like Time Travel Vienna. We found it an easy, fun and entertaining way to get a quick overview of the city's history.
Prater and Riesenrad
During the summer, the Prater is my daughter's favorite outing. It is an old-fashioned amusement park chock full of rides and junk food. Think state fair type rides, not Six Flags. There is also a massive park there where you can ride bikes and visit playgrounds or simply walk/run on the grounds. During the winter, many of the rides are closed. There is a small Christmas market open there by the ferris wheel and the ferris wheel itself is open. The iconic ferris wheel (the Riesenrad) dates from 1897 and takes long, slow rotations. A ride on it lasts about 20 minutes and provides you with great views of Vienna. There is a roller-coaster restaurant in the park where robots make and then a roller coaster automatically delivers your food. We checked it out for you and can report that it was a fun gimmick, but the food isn't that great. I think my bunch found it mildly enjoyable, but I can see it being quite exciting for younger kids who are really into robots and such.
